655 South Lincoln Ave San Bernardino Ca. 92408
Toll Free 877-470-2975 Fax 909-890-0703

CAMARO / FIREBIRD TRACLINK ----- TSC series 24 / 26 six speed

Kit includes

  • (1) adjustment collar
  • (2) rubber bushings
  • (1) torque arm with rod ends/ rear end bracket assembled (assembly includes - bracket, (2) 3/4 x 5/8 rod ends, (2)  right hand 3/4 jam nuts, (1)-left hand 3/4 jam nut, (1) hex adjuster, (2) 5/8 lock washers, (2) 5/8 grade 5 bolts)
  • (1) main center beam
  • (1) 12mm washer
  • (7) 1/2 x 1 x 20 grade 5 bolts
  • (8) 1/2 x 20 stove lock nuts
  • (1) 1/2 x 1-1/4 x 20 grade 5
  • (2) 3/8 x 2-3/4 x 24 grade 5 bolts
  • (4) 3/8 flat washers
  • (2) 3/8 x 24 lock nuts

TRACLINK kits require approximately 3 to four hours to install.

Although TRACLINK is considered a bolt–on device for factory stock vehicles, it is reasonable to assume additional time may be required for proper installation, depending on other after market modifications already present on the car.

One of the performance features of TRACLINK is, the pinion angle is fully adjustable. Here at the factory we preset the angle, which will work for most applications however different ride heights, various motor/transmission combinations may require adjustments. Zero degrees measured at the rear end pinion to drive shaft location is most desired.

  1. Begin installation by elevating the vehicle, as you will be required to be underneath it to install the kit. It is recommended that you support the uni-body with jack stands both front and rear. Leave the axle. This will help while installing the TRACLINK.
  2. Remove the factory torque arm assembly. To accomplish this, take the bolts out of the factory torque arm mount located at the back of the trans. Remove the entire bracket assembly. The exhaust bracket will also come loose. In the hardware pack there are two 3/8 inch diameter bolts and nuts which replace the factory hardware. Move to the rear of the torque arm and remove the two long bolts that attach it to the rear axle. The arm should come off.
  3. Once the torque arm is removed unbolt the little clamps that hold the brake lines and fuel lines. These lines run down the center of the drive shaft tunnel. The fuel filter must also be unbolted from the frame. DO NOT UNDO THE FITTINGS ON THE FUEL LINES OR BRAKE LINES. Once the lines are loose, move up to the passenger compartment and remove the rear set cushion behind the driver seat. Next remove the rear seat belt and bolt which screws into the drive shaft tunnel. This allows you to obtain clearance to get underneath the carpet in that area.
  4. Locate the main beam, at this point you will need a 1/2 inch drill bite and drill motor. The drill bit should be at least 6 inches long. Slide the main beam into position. To do this, lightly pull the fuel/brake lines away from the floor. You only need to move the lines a little, just enough to get the main beam OVER the top of the lines. The front of the beam should be on top of the transmission cross member. PROPER POSITION FOR THE MAIN BEAM IS AS FOLLOWS. THE V AT THE BACK OF THE BEAM MUST FIT UP IN THE FLOOR AREA UNDER THE REAR SET SO THE EDGE OF THE TOP PLATE IS LAYING FLAT AGAINST THE FLOOR AND IS ABOUT 1/4 OF AN INCH AWAY FROM THE UNI-BODY SEAM. THE FRONT OF THE BEAM WILL ALSO BE RESTING ON TOP OF THE TRANSMISSION CROSS MEMBER. The front of the beam, when positioned properly will be parallel with the drive shaft and will allow just enough clearance for the brake lines.
  5. Hold the beam up against the floor concentrating on the top plate indexing flat and 1/4 of an inch away from the seam. The first hole you will drill will be the one inside the tube. Have an assistant help support the beam while you drill this hole. Place a 1/2 - inch bolt with a washer through the hole from the passenger compartment side down. Install the nut through the tube using an extension and tighten the bolt down just enough to pull the beam up and contact the floor. (You should still be able to slightly move or pivot the beam.
  6. Next move forward to the transmission cross member and position the beam so it is as close to parallel to the drive shaft as you can. Make sure the brake lines and fuel lines still slide back up into their stock location. It will be tight. The back portion of the Traclink beam must also fit up into the V portion of the uni-body as well.
  7. Take a pencil or marker and mark the hole location of the main beam to the transmission cross member. You are going to drill a 1/2 inch hole in your cross member and bolt the front of the Traclink beam to it. Once you have marked the transmission cross member you will have to remove it from the car. At this point simply support the transmission and unbolt the cross member.
  8. Drill your have inch hole and reinstall the cross member.
  9. Take a 1/2 inch bolt with nut and attach the Traclink beam to the cross member. Tighten to 70 foot pounds.
  10. Move to the back of the Traclink beam and drill the remaining two holes in the top plate against the floor. Do the one closest to the outside of the car first. Again with a 1/2 inch bolt with flat washer installed, drop it down from the passenger compartment through the Traclink plate and tighten 70 foot pounds. Next drill the center hole and bolt accordingly. Torque the remaining two bolts to 70 foot pounds.
  11. Drill the two side holes facing the front of the car next. Make sure the carpet is pulled away before drilling. Again install the bolt with washer from the passenger compartment down. Torque to 70 foot pounds.
  12. Drill the remaining two holes following the same procedure
  13. The Traclink main beam is now installed, you may put back the fuel lines and brake lines. The lines may require slight bending to get them back into position. This does not need tools, just bend them with you hands. MAKE SURE THE LINES ARE NOT RESTING ON THE BOLTS, NUTS, BRACES, OR PLATES. Why? Overtime chassis vibrations may wear a hole in the lines if they are left to rub against another steel surface. (Solutions: If you feel the line will contact something then simply slice a rubber hose and slide it over the line. Secure hose with tie wraps or clamps). Most likely you will not have to do this because the lines move out of the way easily.
  14. Installing the new torque arm on the differential will require lowering the rear end away from the uni-body. You do not have to remove it. Place jack stands under the body and lower the rear end down till you can slip the torque arm over the differential. The torque arm pivot on the main beam (already installed) requires a collar with rubber bushings on each side of it. Before you install the torque arm, slide the collar (with the large washer welded on one end) over the end of the torque arm. Place one rubber bushing with the tapered and slide one rubber bushing You will notice a larger collar on the front of the arm.
  15. Tighten the torque arm bracket to the rear end to 90 foot pounds. Torque the two bolts holding the torque arm to the bracket to 80 foot pounds. They are located on the side of the bracket. Take an open wrench and tighten down the rod end jam nuts.
  16. Re-install the interior. Make sure to retighten the seat belt bolt. The carpet and seat will go back to their original position without modifications.
  17. Lower the vehicle and take it for a test drive.

Technical information

  • If you notice a vibration at speeds during your test drive! This condition is caused by the drive line or pinion angle being nose down or over center and nose up. Both of these conditions will cause a chassis vibration. Re check you pinion angle. We have found that if the pinion is set at zero, using this type of torque arm, the vibration goes away. Example: To increase the pinion angle, lengthen the upper rod end on the torque arm. To decrease the pinion angle lengthen the lower rod end.

Popping or thumping sounds -----Popping or thumping noises can come from two conditions.

  • When adjusting the pinion angle the rod ends (upper and lower) where adjusted out at the same time increasing the length of the torque arm. If the torque arm does not have 3/8 of an inch travel between the collar and the start of the tapered shaft, it is possible over bumps for the torque arm to bottom out on the collar creating a thumping noise. To correct this problem turn both the upper and lower rod ends in the same amount. This will shorten the torque arm without changing your pinion angle.
  • The grease fitting located on the end cap of the collar is over filled. This will cause the torque arm to hydraulic when the arm moves in over bumps. The rubber bushing then pre-loads and a popping noise might occur. To correct the problem, remove the grease fitting from the cap and drive the car over bumps. The excess grease will purge out. Reinstall the grease fitting and the problem should be solved.

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