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Mustang coilover instruction sheets for kit COMNR-67-70 AND COMNR-67-70-S,D

The kit includes the following
2 upper shock engine bay mounts
2 upper shock mounts
2 shocks
2 springs
2 sets shock thrust bearing kits
2 sets coilover shock collars
2 lower control arm shock mounts
2 tubular lower arms (TBF-7)
2 tubular upper arms (COMNR73)
2 adjustable strut rods (ASR-6)
1 Spanner Wrench
1 drill template
1 Hardware pack

Installation requires removing the front suspension components except the steering.
A Chiltons or Mitchell shop manual will be helpful if you have never attempted this before. The following steps are based on the suspension off the car.

1. Locate the drill template in your kit. The template will be placed on top of the shock tower over the location where the factory carriage bolts locate. Note: The carriage bolts must be removed.

Template center punching one hole only

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wpe6.jpg (9395 bytes)

 

Take the template and align the holes so they locate in the narrow slot where the carriage bolts index. Center punch the inside hole first. Do not center punch all the holes at this time.

2. Take a 3/8-drill bit and drill the inner hole. wpe1.jpg (8214 bytes)

3. Once you have drilled the hole locate the template again and take one of 6 (3/8) fine thread 2 ¾ long allen bolts and drop it down through the template and shock tower. wpe4.jpg (7563 bytes)


 

 

 

4. With the allen bolt aligning the first hole center the 2 remaining holes to be drilled over the narrow slots that originally indexed the carriage bolts. Take the center punch and punch one more hole. We recommend doing one hole at a time because of the close tolerances we have with the upper shock mount and the engine bay shock cover.

5. Follow the same procedure as you did with the first hole. After the second hole is drilled lay the template overwpe5.jpg (7211 bytes) the tower and place 2 bolts through the template/tower. Center punch the third hole.


6. At this time all three holes should be drilled. Locate in your kit one upper shock mount. It looks like an aluminum billet cone. Take
three 2- 3/4 long allen bolts and slide them
through the upper shock mount and up into the tower from inside the fender well
Note: The mount goes directly against the tower. Do not use any cushions. wpe6.jpg (6017 bytes)

 

7. Once the allen bolts have slid through the hole and the upper shock mount is flat against the shock tower. Locate the engine bay shock mount aluminum plate and thread the bolts into the plate. Tighten down the bolts to 35 pounds.
wpe7.jpg (7493 bytes)wpe8.jpg (5741 bytes)

 

 

 

 

8. If you have ordered a negative roll system you will have an upper control arm template for drilling different locating holes. Note: If you did not order a negative roll system no template will be provided but you will have to drill the upper mounting holes out to 9/16 diameter. The original holes are ½ inch diameter. Slide a couple of ½ inch bolts through the template and inner shock tower. Position the new holes so they are down below the original. Center punch the holes.
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The picture below shows the template in position and center punching the lower holes.

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9. Drill the new hole location with a 3/8 drill bit and then step the hole up to a final size of 9/16 diameter.
wpeB.jpg (6407 bytes)

If you have ordered a non negative roll system you will still need to drill the original holes out to 9/16 diameter.

 

 

If you have ordered a non negative roll system you will still need to drill the original holes out to 9/16 diameter.

10. After the holes are drilled install the upper control arm. wpeC.jpg (7952 bytes)
If you have a negative roll system place the 3/8 inch steel backing plate between the upper control arm shaft and the shock tower. If you do not have a negative roll system you will not have the plate. Just bolt the upper control arm direct. Torque the upper control arm shaft bolts to 90 foot pounds.

11. Installing the lower control arm requires using a locout kit rather then the factory eccentric bolt.

wpeD.jpg (3548 bytes)The locout kit part # loc-2 offers 6 different positions, each hole will move the control arm in or out depending on how you rotate the plates. The plates are numbered 1 through 6. The more negative camber you want you simply move the holes towards the outside of the chassis. Make sure that when you align the holes that the plate in the front of the car reads for an example 1. The back plate on the other side of the frame will position the number 1 AGAINST THE FRAME. You will not be able to read it.

InwpeE.jpg (8284 bytes)stall the lower control arm simply by sliding it up into position. We recommend installing the locout kit so the bolt holding the lower control arm will be slightly towards the outside of the car.

Use a 4 inch long grade 8 (½ inch bolt) with the locout plates to install the lower control arm. See below.
wpeF.jpg (9035 bytes)

 

12. After installing the lower control arm you need to install the asr-6 strut rod kit. The asr-6 clevises should only install one way. Notice the flat machined on the clevis itself. The flat goes down towards the bottom of the car. wpe10.jpg (4451 bytes)

In the picture to the left notice the large flat on the clevis. The flat goes down.

In the picture to the left notice the large flat on the clevis. The flat goes down.

wpe11.jpg (8235 bytes)

Slide the clevis up into the frame. The clevis should go flat up against the opening. Next place the large flat washer on to the clevis followed by the lock washer and then the 1 inch diameter nut. Torque the nut to 120 foot pounds and slide the cotter pin through the clevis.


13. The shock and coilover kit needs to be installed next.
A. Install the collar first on the shock.
wpe12.jpg (4833 bytes)

Thread the collar almost all the way down on the shock.

B. Install the needle bearing kit next onto the shock collar.wpe13.jpg (4318 bytes)
The above right picture shows the bearing kit.

 

C. Slide the needle bearing kit onto the shock collar. First slide one thin washer over then the bearing and then the wpe14.jpg (7221 bytes)last thin washer. Do not lubricate the bearing. The lube will collect dirt over time and stop the bearing from rotating.

 

 

 

D. Next slide the spring over the shock.
wpe4.jpg (5068 bytes)

E. Locate the retaining clip that holds the top shock cone. Notice: The clip indexes in the upper shock mount. wpe5.jpg (3747 bytes)

 

 

F. The upper cone slides over the shaft as shown to the right.wpe6.jpg (5700 bytes)

 

G. Close the clip with your fingers and the upper shock cone will slide up and index in the slot.wpe7.jpg (5863 bytes)

To the right the picture shows the upper cone with clip installed.

H. Adjust the collar at the bottom of the shock up until it touches the upper cone. We suggest adjusting the collar up about 2 ¼ inches measured from the base of the shock where the threads start to the bottom of the adjusting collar.

wpe8.jpg (7991 bytes)13. Install the shock through the upper control arm.
See left photo.
14. Install the shock into the upper mount and slide the 2 ¾ inch long allen bolt through the hole with the upper bearing in alignment. The allen bolt nut indexes on one side so you do not need a wrench to hold it. Simply start the bolt and tighten down to 70 foot pounds.

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Notice how the bolt nut indexes onto the upper shock mount.


 

15. Locate the lower billet shock mount and a ½ inch diameter allen bolt 1 ¼ inches long. Drop the allen bolt down through the hole in the shock mount. wpeA.jpg (7515 bytes)


16. Next you are going to place the strut on top of the lower control arm and install the 2 (9/16) inch bolts from the bottom.
wpeB.jpg (7493 bytes)
Place the billet lower shock mount on top of the lower control arm with the strut rod sandwiched in between.


To the right wpeC.jpg (5703 bytes)
Shows how the lower mount will look installed on the arm.

 

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Locate two (9/16) nuts in your kit and slide one in each slot of the aluminum billet shock mount. Do not tighten them down yet. Note: You will notice the lower shock mount is machined to hold the nuts for tightening down. Tighten down the ½ inch allen bolt next to the ball joint to 70 foot pounds. Next tighten down the 9/16 bolts just till they start to get snug. WE DO NOT WANT TO TORQUE THEM YET. Torque them after the caster is set. The torque specification is 90 foot pounds. If you must drive the car to an alignment shop, torque the bolts now. Instruct the alignment shop to loosen the bolts when setting caster. Loosen just enough to allow the strut rod to slightly shift on the lower control arm. Why? Because when using a spherical rod end on a strut rod it is best to operate with no side loads. Adjusting the length of the strut rod moves the lower control arm forward or aft depending on your desired settings. The angle of strut rod in relationship to the lower control arm will change. Lateral will be induced if the angle of the strut rod is not readjusted. We designed the forward lower control arm strut rod bolt to allow pivoting of the rod. Therefore accommodating the angle change. By loosening the bolts slightly will allow the pivot and elevate unnecessary lateral loads on the spherical rod end.

 

17. Slide the lower portion of the shock into the billet lower mount. Take one of the ½ inch bolts provided in your kit and slide it through. The ½ inch nut will index on top of the strut rod steering stop. Torque to 70 foot pounds.wpeE.jpg (5925 bytes)

18. Install the spindle on to the lower ball joint. Note: A Gold spacer is required between the spindle and the lower ball joint nut. Torque the ball joint to 90-foot pounds and cotter pin.wpe5.jpg (8030 bytes)
 

 

 

 

 


Place the spacer on first before the nut.

wpe10.jpg (7938 bytes)

19. Install the upper ball joint through the spindle. Place a 9/16 flat washer between the spindle and the nut. Torque the upper ball joint to 70-foot pounds and cotter pin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpe11.jpg (8384 bytes)

20. Installation will be complete.
Hook up your steering, drop the car on the ground and check the ride height. Adjusting the ride height requires raising the front end of the ground. A spanner wrench (provided in your kit) is used to rotate the adjusting collar.

 


Note: When checking ride height the vehicle must be rolled at least the distance of the wheel base and bounced before a measurement can be taken.

wpe12.jpg (10663 bytes)Alignment specs for street application power steering. (Note: For manual application reduce caster to 2 degrees positive on passenger side and 1 ½ degrees positive on driver side.)
Caster
Driver side 3 degrees positive
Passenger side 3 ½ degrees positive
Camber
¼ degree negative both sides
Toe-in
3/32 total toe in
Alignment for road racing Initial setting
Caster
3 ½ degrees positive both sides
Camber 1 ¼ negative both sides
Toe-in 1/16 in per side


Make sure the strut rod bolts are tight after the alignment.

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