|
655 South Lincoln Ave San Bernardino Ca. 92408
Phone 877-470-2975 Fax 909-890-0703
Web address
www.globalwest.net
Mustang coilover instruction sheets for 64-66 (COMST-6466
/ COMST-6466S / COMST-6466D / CONMNR-6466 / COMNR-6466S / COMNR-6466D).
Kit includes the following
-
2 upper
shock mounts
-
2
shocks
-
2
springs
-
2
helper springs
-
2
helper spring spacers
-
1 set
shock thrust bearing kit
-
2 sets
coilover shock adjusting collars
-
2
tubular lower arms
-
2
tubular upper arms
-
1 sway
bar with hardware
-
2 inner
fender tower supports with bump stops
-
1
Spanner Wrench
-
1 drill
template (included with negative roll system only)
-
1
Hardware pack
Installation requires removing the front suspension components except the
steering.
A
Chiltons or Mitchell shop manual will be helpful if you have never
attempted this before. The following steps are based on the suspension
being off the car.
1.
 Check
the slots of the upper shock mount in the tower and see if 3/8 diameter
bolts pass through the slots. Sometimes the bolt will clear without filing
or grinding. If not, open up the holes slightly at the very end of the
slot. You do not have to grind the entire slot. Shown to the right we
used a ¼ inch air grinder.
2.
The kit contains 2 billet upper aluminum shock mounts. The mounts
are installed from underneath the tower. On the wheel side inside the
tower there are indexing tabs that center the stock springs. (see picture
below)
Notice the indexing tabs:
The new shock mount has a machined groove cut out
to allow the tabs to rest inside the mount. Sometimes the tabs require a
slight bend so they will fit into the mount. You do not have to grind
these tabs, simply bend the tabs using a pliers. The goal is to have the
mount seat flat up against the tower.
3.
If you have ordered a negative roll system you will have an upper
control arm template for drilling different locating holes. Note:
If you did not order a negative roll system no template will  be
provided but you will have to drill the upper mounting holes out to 9/16
diameter.
The original holes are ½ inch diameter. Slide a couple of ½ inch bolts
through the template and inner shock tower. Position the new holes so
they are down below the original. Center punch the holes.
The
picture below shows the template in position and center punching the lower
holes.
Drill
the new hole location with a 3/8 drill bit and then step the hole up to a
final size of 9/16 diameter.
If you have
ordered a non-negative roll system (ST) you will still need to drill the
original holes out to 9/16 diameter.
4.
After the holes are drilled in the towers install the upper control
arms. There are right and left upper arms. The arm has an offset that
pulls the ball joint towards the rear of the car. Therefore, looking at
the arm installed on the car, the ball joint should be positioned to the
rear of the car. If you put the control arms on backwards, the coilover
shock assembly will interfere.
(Note:
If you have a negative roll system, place the 3/8 inch steel spacer plate
between the upper control arm shaft and the shock tower.
If you do not have a
negative roll system you will not have the plate. Just bolt the upper
control arm direct.)
Just
tighten the nuts down. Do not torque them down because the alignment is
going to be done using shims between the upper arm and shock tower.
5.
Install the lower control arm by sliding it up into position. Make sure
the gold centering sleeve is over the 1-inch diameter bolt. The hex
adjuster with the jam nuts should also be loose. The design calls for two
threads showing on each side of the jam nuts. We will explain this later.
Once you have slide the bolt through the frame, install the large diameter
flat washer / lock washer / and then the nut. Go ahead and tighten them to
90 foot-pounds.
Slide
the other side of the lower a-arm up into the frame. Occasionally due to
frame discrepancies the hex adjuster may need to be lengthen or shortened
in order for the arm to install. Slide the ½ inch bolt through the
assembly and torque to 70 foot-pounds.
Important
– (Adjusting the lower arm). With the control arm bolted tight to the
chassis, cycle the lower control arm up and down making sure it moves
freely. With a 1-inch wrench, adjust the hex adjuster so there are
approximately two threads showing on each side of the jam nuts. Feel the
amount of pressure needed to adjust the wrench. What you are looking
for is the least amount of resistance to move the wrench / hex adjuster.
If you adjust the length too long or short, the rod end will have
unnecessary side loads placed on the bearing and you will feel that when
you are adjusting the assembly. The hex adjuster is harder to turn. This
does not mean two threads showing are required. Two threads should be
normal but your car may require something else. The centering of the
assembly with the least amount of side loads is most important. Remember!
Extra side loads will prematurely wear the bearing out. Adjust the hex
adjuster correctly and you will have no premature wear.
Do not use the Hex adjuster to set caster.
Caster is pre-built into the upper control arms.
6.
Assemble the coilover shock.
A.
First install the collar on the shock. The Afco shock uses a single
adjusting collar with a setscrew that locks the collar from rotating. QA-1
shocks use a jam nut instead of a setscrew. Both work well. 
The
photo to the left shows a QA-1 application with jam nut.
Thread the collar
almost all the way down on the shock.
 B.
Install the needle bearing kit next onto the shock collar. Install as
shown – flat washer / needle bearing/ flat washer. Do not lubricate the
needle bearing or threads on the shock body. Lubrication will attract dirt
and make adjustments hard later on.
C.
Slide the needle bearing assembly onto the shock adjuster.
D. Next
slide the spring over the shock.
E. Next
locate one spring adapter ring. The ring will index on top of the spring. 
F. Next
on top of the adapter ring install the short helper spring.
G. The
upper cone slides over the shaft as shown to the right.
H.
Locate the retaining clip that holds the top shock cone. Notice: The clip
indexes in the upper shock mount. Close
the clip with your fingers and the upper shock cone will slide up and
index in the slot. Make sure the clip when installed angles down towards
the base of the shock.
I.
Adjust the collar at the bottom of the shock, up until the
entire
spring assembly falls into
alignment on the shock.
7. On
the bench install the shock assembly into the upper mount. For proper fit
make sure the top shock adjustment is accessible facing the wheel and the
head of the allen bolt (after install) is facing the front of the car.
The mount has a slot that accepts bearing or polyurethane shock ends.
The poly requires no
spacers.
The bearing type uses two spacers, one on each side of the shock bearing.
Slide the allen bolt through the mount with one spacer on each side of the
bearing. The allen bolt nut indexes on one side so you do not need a
wrench to hold it. Simply start the bolt and tighten down to the nut. The
nut just needs to be tight no set torque is required.
 
 8.
Install the shock through the upper control arm.
9.
Rotate the upper mount till it sides through the shock tower hole. Once
the allen bolt gets past the tower you will be able to index the mount.
Install the mount using the hardware supplied in your kit. Tighten down
the bolt to 25 foot-pounds. Note: You do not need a cushion between
the billet mount and the shock tower.
10.
Next swing the lower control up and attach the bottom of the shock to the
arm. You will notice 2 spacers on the bolt. Again these spacers go on
each side of the bearing. If the shock uses polyurethane mounts. The
spacers are not used.
11.
Install the spindle onto the lower ball joint. A spacer (supplied on the
lower ball joint) goes next to the nut and on top of the spindle. It acts
as a spacer. Torque the ball joint to 90-foot pounds and cotter pin. (below) 
12.
Install the upper ball joint through the spindle. Torque the upper ball
joint to 70-foot pounds and cotter pin.
13.
Install the new inner tower supports. The stock support would bolt on as
seen in the photo to the left. The tubular support installs just as stock.
There is a right and left unit. You cannot install them incorrectly.
Hardware is supplied. 
Install
all the bolts and nuts in the support loosely. Place the head of the bolt
in the engine compartment side. Tighten down the top 2 bolts first and
then move from the top, side bolts down the bracket. Tighten to 25 pounds.
 
14. The
vehicle must be lowered to the ground and ride height set.
Note:
When checking ride height the vehicle must be rolled at least the distance
of the wheel base and bounced before a measurement can be taken.
Adjusting
the ride height requires raising the front end off the ground. A spanner
wrench (provided in your kit) is used to rotate the adjusting collar. Once
the ride height is set, lock the adjusting collar in place by the setscrew
or jam nut depending on what shock you have.
15.
Installing the sway bar is next. With the vehicle on the ground or on a
drive on rack, install the sway
bar to the factory location. Lubricate the bushing during assembly with
synthetic grease.
You want to use water resistant grease and
synthetics are generally water resistant. The sway bar end link was
installed on the lower control arm when you received it. Unscrew the end
link out of the rod end. That will put one bolt, 2 cushions, 2 concave
washers, one steel sleeve, and one jam nut in your hand. Disassemble the
link and reassemble the end link with the sway bar in between the
cushions. It is best to do both sides before swinging the sway bar
up into position.
Rotate
the sway bar up to the lower arms and start the bolts. You will run the
bolts while holding the jam nut up until you start compressing the end
link cushions. Tighten the jam nut to the rod end at that time and then
complete the other side.
16.
Setting the steering stop: The easiest way is to have the car
on an alignment rack with turntables. Turn the steering wheel lock
to lock and observe from underneath the car the suspension. Look f or
the tire and rim hitting anything at all. If so, adjust the steering
stop out to stop the steering knuckle arm from turning too far. Allow at
least an 1/8-inch
of clearance at the location of clearance problem.
Alignment specifications for street application power steering.
(Note:
For manual application reduce caster to 2 degrees positive on passenger
side and 1 ½ degrees positive on driver side.)
Alignment for road racing initial setting
Return to 1964-66 Mustang coilover kits. |